When I started demure as ‘high-end fashion accessory brand’ I immediately sought professional advice and started releasing collections according to the ‘calendar. According to the fashion calendar, in the slowest terms, I had to release my collection at least 6-7months ahead of the actual season and almost a year ahead if I wanted to work with retailers. I kept up with it for three seasons and gave up. The biggest reason was that, after preparing ‘the official collection’ so long ahead, what my customers actually wanted when the intended season arrived was often completely different. I realised that what my customers and I wanted was something uniquely personal rather than ‘trendy’ which would no longer be so in 6 months. My hats are indeed meant for life and the calendar was just not fitting our slow tempo.
So in November 2019, instead of sending out normal press release with campaign images for SS2020, I sent out a message to say I was going to drop out of the circuit. I could not explain really well why back then as i blamed myself for not being able to keep up with the industry norm and was feeling even embarrassed. I was afraid that I might send out a negative message that I am not capable to run a fashion business. I was terrified that I might let down people who had extended kind supports to demure and myself. However people’s reactions were so kind and understanding. i had nice replies to my release and one person even took a bother to pass by my studio to say ‘Keep going!’ and gave me stroopwafels.
So that was where I was end-2019 and beginning 2020. Then the current pandemic situation happened. As I spend the ‘lock-down sabbatical’ period thinking how I go further in my plans,, I heard a news about a new organisation called ‘Rewiring Fashion’. It is lead by Dries Van Noten and other prominent designers as well as other industry players the first announcement included propositions on timings and formats of collection release including the way fashion shows are run and end of excessive discount policies.
As I said, when I wrote my message to my industry colleagues back last November, I could not streamline my thoughts in a clear way but the statement from the organisation made it so clear for me. It as a big relief to know that I wasn’t necessarily a ‘loser’ to drop out of the race. Many others including the established players were feeling the dilemma between creative pursuit and business pressure. And we found an opportunity to re-set or ‘Re-wire’ together.
The initial statement from Rewiring Fashion simply point out what they see as problems and propose solutions to change in practical terms. No flowery words. Just clear road map and target. It makes me have great faith in this organisation.
Together with re-scheduling collection releasing, it suggests to end excessive discounting. As a maker-brand, whose prices are worked out by simple (material cost) + (my hourly wage x number of hours) with no ‘profit margin’, it will save my life literally.
Since the lock-down started, I am giving large discounts on many items, but before, I never did a sale and when the store opening goes back to normal, the discount will also end. I never did sale because It felt as if I was betraying full-price-paying customers and also myself, because I did the work to make it and giving discount was to discount my own work. Right now, I am very happy to give up my wage just to say thank you to whoever is willing to support demure in this difficult situation and i know my good customers would understand that. Also as a business, the discount does not hurt anyone outside demure in form of social dumping. It’s only me making hats to sell here so it is technically the same as large corporations not paying directors fees due to the crisis.
I am so excited to hear this news about ‘Rewiring Fashion’ as I hope it to be a movement to bring fashion business closer to genuine appreciation of creativity and commitment of workmen. I am eager to find out how I, as a small powerless individual, can contribute to this movement.
And I strongly believe that, for this movement, grassroots movement will be essential. If unknown brand owners and consumers think ‘I’m no one, I’m powerless so I can’t create movement,’ that will be a big mistake. And this is the very mistake that those who want to cling to the current privileged positions want. They will make you feel better by ‘talking about’ sustainability and all that and hope you never go further to take action. What I really value in Rewinding Fashion is that, their action plans clearly shows their determination to do things and move forward. But without supports of grassroots, this great idea will also not realise. So we are all in it together and we are all responsible.
As lock-down for small business starts to ease, the news gave me strong boost and positive outlook. Thank you.
Yuki