demure

couture hat amsterdam

November 2021: A morning encounter

Yuki Isshiki

A morning encounter

One morning I was biking to my studio, trying my best to wake up for the traffic as I’m really not a morning person.

Then at a crossing, a lady biked across in front of me and the sight totally woke me up. She was wearing one of the skipper caps I made!

The lady clearly noticed that I was literally turning my head to her. I think she realized what I was looking at. She touched her cap, smiled a bit shyly and biked on.

I didn’t quite recognize her from the distance and she didn’t call my name or anything so I imagine she either ordered it online or got it as a gift.

It was the one made in denim that a small weaver in Japan made exclusively for me and it had slight sheen of lurex.

I drew patterns for the model 6 years ago (with a few modifications afterwards). It has a bit higher crown than those of classic skipper caps. Yet it doesn’t look too high-risen because the fabric is cut in certain way. The band underneath is thinner and it doesn’t have hard plastic thing inside so it was sitting on the lady’s head securely despite the morning being a windy one. And the peak is shorter and narrower so it doesn’t catch too much wind yet gives enough sun/rain coverage. And I was particularly happy to see that the edge of the peak finished by binding was giving the cap ‘finished with care=couture’ look.

Since I started demure, practical yet accessorizing everyday items became such an interesting project and I have drawn so many patterns using my hat blocks. The skipper model is one of my favourites for both men and women and every year I make small changes and produce a few variations. Looking for high quality fabrics with delicate textures and colours is another fun. This year I found magnificent cashmere/wool bulky tweed in black and dark chocolate.

Skipper caps are such popular style worn by so many people in Amsterdam yet being able to spot mine amongst others and to see all the small things I fussed about were making some difference made me smile and the the lady’s happy expression was a sign of endorsement, I want to believe....!