demure

couture hat amsterdam

material

About our wardrobe

Yuki Isshiki

In light of recent awareness of sustainability, we often hear about how to organise our wardrobes more consciously, which I welcome very much.

The most popular concept is ‘buy well, buy less.’. In order to do this, we need to look at quality of the garments we buy so we can wear them for a long time without too much damage or only with repairable damage and we need to know how to repair them or who can repair them for us. Also, it’s often said that we should pick ‘staple pieces’ such as cashmere cardigan, crisp white shirt and chanel quilted shoulder bags.

Maybe that’s a good idea. 

I do have a cashmere V neck jumper which my grandmother bought for me 30 years ago and I still wear it because the quality of it is so good and the simplicity of the piece makes it versatile in daily styling. However, as far as the styles go, does it really need to be ‘the classic’ or does it have to be from an eternally popular brands (the items from such brands are called 'investment pieces' which I tend to dislike)? What if you are not the most ‘classic’ kind of person? Or what about your sentimental value which you build as you keep something for a long time? What about 'true value' of a garment for you? If you look at your wardrobe, I’m sure you can identify your own style (regardless of seasonal or even weekly fashion trend) which suits your taste for aesthetic and body shape/complexions which are very unique to yourself. Also you will have good old memories with certain items. And I strongly believe that you must not ignore your own style and values when choosing something which you hope to wear for a long time. Trend may change ever so often but the eyes for beauty you have nurtured over the years and your personal feeling towards the piece (ie. saving up for ages to buy this special piece ) must be something you should never ignore. You are worth it and your opinions and feeling also matter. Once you identify what you really like and go for it, I’m sure you will feel even more comfortable wearing it and would not feel urged to ‘catch up with fashion’ or to wear certain brands to feel more secure. Remember, one of the reasons why trend switches so often is to keep you insecure and keep buying. Meanwhile, in order to establish your taste and eyes for quality and style, some people may need more quality information. And, like for anything else these days, finding impartial useful information to build authentic views of your own is a big challenge. 

Since I started working in fashion industry,  I have realised that the best styled people often draw inspiration from many other things than fashion items. Some love arts, some love music and some are good observers of human being in general. They are also interested in how things are made and pay attention to details rather than labels as they know such details make so much difference in the looks.. They are in principle very perceptive people who see and appreciate many things in life. These guys always come up with the most creative ideas for clothing which make them look beautiful and show freedom of expression and celebration of themselves. This way, they are secure with their own ideas and allow no one to interrupt with the style. You will then realise that it is important to give more credit to your own liking (which is a reflection of your character and interest ) rather than listening to ‘Insta-Famous opinions leaders’ and others in similar positions. Then who needs to buy new things every time you go out or needs to stick to 'classic piece' to stay safe?

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demure Skipper caps 'LBd'

Yuki Isshiki
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Skipper caps are far the most popular items sold at demure. Amongst them, the ones which come in black/blue/beige are popular and all the names of these colours happen to start with 'b' so I call this selection of caps 'LBd' or "Little Black/Blue/Beige demure'.

It's been a few years since skipper caps became trendy and elsewhere you may have started seeing other styles are gathering popularity but here in Amsterdam I think skippers will stay to become one of the classics. Casual and active style perfectly fit Amsterdam lifestyle and these caps with peak and headband are perfectly made for windy weather and biking.

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As far as LBd's are concerned, what make them popular is staying true to the classic while being unique in design. Also, I have taken practicalities and other things into consideration in making them.

1. Original patterns

The skipper caps that you may find elsewhere are in made using patterns and forms for original skippers caps which were meant to be for men and they in general have rather different facial features from women. I started drawing my patterns to address the difference. I have also developed several different patterns depending on which fabric I use or what customers are looking for. 'A skipper cap which can contain a bun of your hair on your bad hair day' is one example. With these patterns, proportions of different parts are well thought out (I have no idea how many times I repeated prototyping/drawing!) and I can of course make further adjustment according to customers' individual needs.

2. Fabric

I couldn't help but try the combination of rich tweeds, silk denim and other luxurious fabric with skipper shape. As a result, the caps can be worn for both casual and formal occasions and can be a part of lady-like look as well as more masculine style and my customers love them!

3. Other details

The band at the front, buttons and emblems are typical trim for skipper caps but minor difference in shapes and sizes of these things can even affect the way they enhance your facial features and i think I have been figuring out these secrets.....!

4. Sizing and the headband

The band which is underneath the main part of the cap often has hard plastic base and I hate it. It is not breathable at all and it often gives you headache. So I use cotton or linen canvas instead and that's why my caps are way more comfortable when you put them on.

5. Lining

Maybe this is a part which may not be seen but is a very important part because it touches your head directly. That's why I would love to use fabric made of natural fibres. And I would like them to be as luxurious as silk, vegan silk, cashmere/cotton mix, Cotton drill or Liberty Tana Lawn. Showing your style to the rest of the world is one thing, but I would like to add something that only YOU will know and enjoy. I think this leads to quiet confidence or 'demureness' by my definition.

These things are some of what make LBd's rather special. And because they are special, I would love you to wear them for a long time. To make it possible, I take much time to make them in the first place, and I would be more than happy to do the maintenance work such as changing the grosgrain ribbon in side the caps for free of charge. This way I can also keep in touch with my customers as they bring their beloved pieces back to me and it is always my utmost pleasure to hear them say 'Hey I wear this one all the time!'.

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