June 2020: Empowering WHO?

NOTE: in this blog, I did not touch on the issue of non-US coloniser countries and people of colours living in such countries to focus on formerly colonised countries and their current local economies.

Every time I hear someone saying something like ’We have our products made in such and such country, empowering the local working community because we are in love with those people since one of us went back-packing there’, I am a little confused, to put it politely. It is basically saying ‘I am paying them better than THEIR local average (which is lower than OUR local wage) because I am conscious’. If I may also add my wildest and most judgemental assumptions, there is underlying arrogance to think that some local economies are smaller than ours because people there are not as productive, or local culture is not sophisticated enough to liberate the labour force (ie. women). Let’s face it. I am sure it is not just my assumption. That’s ‘at least’ (am polite again here) some of what we think in this part of the world and this is nothing but racism.

True reason of some local economies smaller lies nowhere but in history of colonialism. 

At the moment, race issues in the United States have been the focus of attention. In history, United States had a big land but not enough people to work in. So they went to captivate people from other lands and forced them to go there and work as slaves. 

Meanwhile other countries only had small lands and little resources so went to other countries, colonise them, deprive them of resources and enslaved the local people. Resources were brought to colonisers, ‘empowering’ THEM to build large economies which now pay their people higher wages. By the time explicit colonisation was regarded ‘not so good’ and nominal independence was granted to the colonised countries, the local economies there were left with nothing. Colonisers might have left or started distancing themselves but no compensation for the exploitation done in the past. If you are caught stealing, you are not just removed fro the victims. You have to pay back by law. What happened here? 

These countries have smaller economies/lower wages because they fell victim of systematic robberies and never got compensated. To go there from the bigger economical zones, pay them slightly more than local average and say ‘We empower’ while enjoying the gap between their local wage and our wage as business profit is result of such ignorance, arrogance and unfairness, which can also be called ‘privileges’ nowadays. The approach is exactly the same as colonisers who invaded other countries based on greed and wrong idea that they are somehow superior (=racism).

Before we make up for the exploitation to date, there is no way we are allowed to work with these countries on equal terms (ie fair trade). And in order to make up for the exploitation, we must invest until these local economies grow to the same size as ours. And this is not discretionary merciful ‘empowerment’. It is called ‘reparation’ which is mandatory. 

There is a big spin to make us believe the concept of reparation is such a radical idea. Yes, these days, if you seek justice, you are deemed 'controversial’. Bravo corporate media funded by millionaires and billionaires.

Some Northern European royal family members have been active in this ‘micro credit’ initiative things saying ‘Just throwing money into these regions does no good for working morale of these (lazy, let’s face it, that’s what they think) people. Let’s make them pay back the money to keep them on the toes.

How can this possibly an idea? Dishonesty and unfairness drive me crazy.

Before expecting them to pay back micro credits, what about their BIG CREDIT they should pay back to these economic regions and people?? 

Because these regions and people are not physically close to us, we are much less confronted with these issues, whereas currently in US, confrontation is much more intense as the oppressors and the oppresses in much larger numbers are literally living in the same land. However, the underlyinng issues are exactly the same and equally brutal.  Let’s imagine that, and realise that the post-colonial issues are as dire as BLM. 

Way forward with this economic inequality which is closely linked to race inequality is to adequately compensate the victims on political/govermental levels. Until then, each one of us on a personal and corporate levels must acknowledge reality correctly and not further exploit these regions and their people.

June 2020: Hat trick politics

Before moving to Amsterdam, I lived in London for 16.5 years. Those years happened to be the ones in which British economy was booming and most of those years I worked for an international consultancy firm and a Japanese invest bank. I was a typical neo-liberal, if I was asked of my political views but most of the time I was quite non-political. It was after I moved to Amsterdam to have my own super small business in a more socialistic country that I became rather political. This time I went back to socialism, my ideology as a teanager studying at protestant schools with heavily unionised teachers. When I was working for big companies in London, my salaries would come in on the same day of the month, earlier as far as I was doing what I was told to do. But as a small business owner in Amsterdam, every month I had to run hard after money and soon realised that ‘working hard’ doesn’t necessarily pay off. I may make a nice hat all by hand using the highest quality materials, but there were always ‘better known brands’ who would throw runway shows in Paris/Milan/NYC while selling factory-made hats for more than double of my price and still selling better than I did. Or, other brands who would sell ‘something like’ hats for 5,- and making more money than I. Naturally I started thinking about things like’fair market’ ‘equality’ democracy’ ‘corporate money power’ ‘journalists buy-out’ As I investigate further, the unfairness spans from mal-treatment of factory workers in less wealthy countries, mal-treatment of environment, and mal-treatment of people of certain ethnic background (directly negative ones and taking advantage of them for self-branding). The more I learn, the alone I felt as the powers that I wanted to stand against seemed just to big and powerful. Then I came across with US Senator Bernie Sanders and his Democratic Socialism. Unlike other politician who want to become US president to be powerful, he called himself ‘an organiser in chief’. He encouraged us to be the main force. His campaign slogan is ‘Not me. US.’ 

As I started following him on his online platforms as well as other independent media and activists, it became easier to obtain less biased information about politics and I no longer felt alone. I no longer felt I was too small to make any difference to the world. Bernie said ‘Change always comes from the bottom to the top. Grassroots movement is vital for fundamental changes.’That meant that my thoughts, words and most importantly deeds can be meaningful and useful to create a better world. It was such an empowering feeling while working in fashion, which is notoriously corporate, branding-driven and exploitative as a small player.

Dr Cornel West, one of Bernie’s surrogates once said ‘Justice is what love looks like in public’ and this has become my mantra. We often think that politics are too dry and boring and far away from concept of love. However, if you are not loved as much as you love, this is in fact no love. Our society misses compassion and love if everyone is not loved the same amount.  In addition, Bernie’s epic phrase at last year’s rally in Queen’s/NY was ‘Can you fight for someone you don’t know as you would for yourself?’ 

I am ashamed that I finally appreciated these concept until it became a serious problem for myself. I did not have enough compassion nor social love to think for others when my life was an easy one as a neo-liberal corporate machine part. However, now I am determined to try to come close to these profound ideologies that I found in Bernie’s movement.

Bernie’s policy platforms are so comprehensive and really helped me shape new world views. 

How to make New Green Deal happen despite establishments’ manipulative criticism of ‘How are you going to pay for it?’ 

Re-distribution of wealth.

Labour rights/minimum wage

Medicare as human right

Freedom of religion 

Decriminalisation of soft drugs and expunging of those who were charged in the past (this also linked to race issue)

As well as

Dismantling current justice/police system and 

Race issue (Many seem to think that former vice president Jo Biden is the guy for people of colours because of his association with the first black president but I have a different idea).

I’m sure you realise that, right now, we are on a tipping point with ALL these issues. Everything is becoming intolerable, or has been intolerable for a long time but finally getting some attention. Thanks to Bernie, I have been trying my best to educate myself on these issues for a while but of course, the biggest challenge would be to pass the test of ‘Can I fight for someone who I don’t know as if it is my own problem as if everyone is not loved and treated with respect, there is no love in this world?’ and ‘Believing in my own power as a part of the grassroots movement and stay proud and keep on going even after the short online news circle forgets about these issues?’. 

This is a big challenge for me. But I realise that, finding likeminded people do help a lot. We can encourage each other and remind each other that we are not ‘no one’ but we can be someone who can impact the world in a positive way. 

That’s why I started writing this blog again. If I speak my mind, I may find new people who say ‘Hey we are similar’! Also, I would like to hear from people who have different ideas. So I can continue challenging myself.

Solidarity has never been so important and let’s truly appreciate the meaning of it rather than talking about it on Instagram. I am sure joy of truly sharing the idea will bring us much much much more joy. And never say never to politics. It is about your life on a very serious level. And about love. 

May 2020: A biased guide to Osaka

The topic has nothing to do with hats but I’m often asked about Japan, my home country. The country being one of the most studied holiday destinations of late, I’m sure you know better than I do about what to eat and where to go. So here I write what I know about a bit of mentality and people of Osaka, my hometown , which I feel very luck and proud to come from. It has own unique culture, which may not always be in line with stereotypical image of Japan.

1. Osaka looks a bit like Rotterdam.

Like Rotterdam, Osaka used to have a ship-building long time ago so during WWII it became a prime bombing target. Everything burnt down and the city was re-built post war so you now only see modern concrete buildings. That’s why I feel somehow at home when I’m in Rotterdam.

2. Old parts of Osaka looks a bit like Madrid.

There are a few neighbourhoods which survived the WWII. And such neighbourhoods have mixture of very old houses as well as buildings with Western influence from the beginning of the last century. A bit chaotic but mix of buildings from different times look a bit similar to what I found in Madrid. By the way, have you ever heard that Spanish language has similar phonetics to that of Japanese language? I do remember being in Madrid, hearing people speaking the language, looking at the buildings and almost confused how similar these cities can feel!

3. Korean Town

Japan lacks race diversity by an international standard, but in Osaka, there is the biggest Korean community outside Korea, making Osaka one of the most ‘international’ regions in Japan. While it involves some regrettable history, by now, I hope the community there are feeling comfortable living there. Korean food is one of the most popular family dinner-out choice by Osakans. I went to a high school near the Korean town and made many friends. 

4. Osaka is a comedy central of Japan.

There are a few comedy theatre companies with long history there and comedians who come from these companies still dominate Japanese comedy scene nationwide. Because of this, many people associate Osakan dialect and accent with the comedy. I have had more than a few people saying to me ‘Because of your accent, everything you say sounds funny!’. Well, dumb Tokyo people…. haha. In fact, sense of humour is considered a very important social skill in Osaka. You will never be the popular kid in the class if you are not funny. 

5. ‘Osaka no Obachan’ 

Obachan is a term for mid-aged women and there is a cliche of mid-aged women from Osaka. They are extremely friendly in a dominant way (like ‘You MUST take this candy with you’ and make you say the biggest words of gratitude), thick-skinned (There is a legendary ad films by City of Osaka about illegal bike parking, where an obachan behaves the most selfish and canning way) and have horrendous dress sense. Their favourite outfit would be everything in animal prints and lurex leggings, which are all too much by the nationwide standard.

6. Value for substance

No branding works with these guys. If you give them too much of ‘story-telling’, you will be met with vulgar comments like ‘I don’t wanna your lecture. Give me the shit quick and I’ll decide for myself later’ ‘Is it a crap in this box that you have to give me so many excuses?’ ‘Pretentiously pretty box but what about what’s inside?’ Meanwhile, if you are honest and give them something truly nice, they will be the most loyal customers who will do all word-of-mouth ads for you. 

7. Osaka vs Tokyo department store comparison.

Matsuko Deluxe, one of the most popular celebrities in Japan once said. ’An example to show difference between Tokyo and Osaka. If you go to a Tokyo-based posh expensive department store, they first judge you by what you are wearing to see if you are ‘qualified’ to be there. But in Osaka-based stores, they treat you absolutely the same manners and regardless of how much you spend, they greet you with the most graceful ‘thank you for your purchase with us’. I totally agree. I would always go to Takashimaya, never to Mitsukoshi.

Just a few things I can think of to say about my home. I would totally understand criticism that I am biased towards Osaka, but ask whoever has lived in Japan for a while, am sure they will agree with me to some extent. Japan is a small country yet has been divided by rivers and mountains so small communities with unique cultures have thrived throughout history. Other regional cultures that I like are that of Hokkaido and Okinawa. Kind, super relaxed and open-minded people. 

'Maker brand' 'Retail brands'

Currently I sell some of my hats online with discounts just to show my gratitude towards your kind support when everyone has more or less concerns about his/her finance and when a handmade hat is really not ‘essential’ at all. However, as some of you know, I’d never done a ‘sale’ until current lock-down started. That was simply because there is effectively no ‘profit margin’ to squeeze to bring the prices down.

Amongst small business which sell things, there are two large categories. I would name them ‘maker brands’ and ‘retail brands’. A ‘maker brand’ is a brand which sells goods which are produced by a maker(s) within the brand. demure belongs to this category. A ‘retailer brand’ buys goods from wholesalers or manufactures and sell them on. 

Between these types, the simplified price structures look like this.

Maker brand: A (material cost)+B (maker’s hourly wage x number of hours spent)=sales price

Retail brand: C (wholesale price of the goods)+D (company’s profit, typically 170-200% of the whole sale price)=sales price

In case of a maker brand, the maker would pay her costs such as rent out of A, her wage. 

In case of a retail brand, the retailer would pay her costs such as her own wage and rent out of D, her profit. After these deductions, there is normally net profit for the business.

At maker brands, there is often no profit left for the business after deducting the maker’s wage. Also for maker brands to compete with retails brands, which typically buy products produced by cheaper labour force than that of maker brands, the maker’s wage is under large pressure. 

I trained to be a specialist in hat-making so I would like to pay myself a wage as a specialised worker (while providing services as such or delivering products of high standards) but in reality, it has been extremely difficult to do so. And I don’t see much prospect of generating ‘net profit’ for demure as a business (however it’s ok because this has never been my goal).  Also, I hate to say it on my behalf but also on behalf of other dedicated makers, I believe that professionally trained specialists’ work should be compensated accordingly. 

I have wanted to explain this to people who are interested in demure without sounding rude to anyone not least because I’d hate if people come to think that my prices as a ‘non-famous brand’ was a rip-off. Fortunately, most of the people have shown much understanding and kindly told me that my products explained it to them already but I have come across with some potential business partners or other public who didn’t seem to understand it. Such situations definitely limit opportunities for maker brands to sell their products via other retailers if the makers want to be sincere to customers and offer the same prices regardless of which outlet the customers may buy their products. You will understand what I mean when you look at the calculations I showed above. For many maker-brands, selling from other retailers is often just a way to expose the brand to a wider audience, not to make profits.

That’s why I never did a sale in the past but as we review many issues within fashion industries during current period, I feel confident in the way I have priced my products and my non-sale policy. And I hope that this little note will help you in comparing not only the face values on the price tag but exactly what you are paying for with your hard-earned money.

Sustainable design

Ultimate sustainability in fashion is that, once you buy something, you wear it forever instead fo throwing it away after a season. Even selling it at a vintage store doesn’t really cut it if you are to buy something thinking ‘Well, if I don’t like it, I can sell it on’.  In fact, besides durability of the item, the design of a fashion item is very important. That is because, if the item is not beautifully designed for you, you will start feeling unhappy wearing it quickly and start looking for a way to get rid of it.

So when you look for a ‘beautifully designed hat that you want to wear forever’, who would you look to? A big luxury brands which set trends every season and gives you certain social status with the label or an experienced hat maker who will meet you, look at your face and rest of your outfit, discuss your concerns and address them for you?

In my opinion, sometimes ‘fashion’ and ‘trend’ give you false sense of confidence. In fact, they may do completely the opposite. They exploit on your insecurity and make you addicted to wasteful buying habits. They make you try keep up with trend and peers and compete. But do you really think that this floppy bucket hat with a little logo ‘beautiful’? Or have you been told it’s a ‘new must-have item made with easy material with nonchalant look?’ And if the shape of the hat doesn’t enhance your facial features, would you blame your face for not being trendy enough or ‘too fat’ and start going on a diet again?  I really want you to stop that. I see it’s really hurting you (and subsequently others, I hate to say). It is such a waste of your energy, money (which you worked hard for), time and all other personal resources you can think of.

Meanwhile, if you are to give me a chance instead of going down this route, I would do the following.

1. We meet so we can look at your face shape and discuss the use of the hat as well as your general taste for outfit to determine the style of the hat. A hat sits right on your face so the shape of the hat is as important as your haircut. 

2. We look at your complexion as well as your favourite colour scheme to determine the right shade of the hat. It can be a contrasting colour or a blending colour. I may even suggest that you try a colour you never thought of but better to have more options. 

3. I take measurement, first to remove your total misconception that ‘your head is too big’. If a mass-produced hat doesn’t fit your head, it is often because the shape of the rigidly stiffened hat doesn’t fit the shape of your head, not because your head is too big. So I measure your head and check the shape of your head. 

4. Your ideas are very important but I would also at least give my opinions for your consideration. And you are often surprised that there are in fact way more options to make your face ‘a hat face’ out there!

5. I always use highest quality material which will last for a long time. I will also explain the quality and nature of the materials so you know if it needs certain cares. I also encourage you to bring your hat back for regular maintenance such as re-blocking of your straw and felt hats as well as exchange of inner bands. We can even re-model or swap your hat after a while. 

We can do all of this together whether it is a made-to-order hat or the one which is already is the store. When we think about a ‘sustainable hat’ which you feel truly beautiful wearing for a long time, is it ’fashion’ ‘trend’ and ‘brand’ which help you? I think ‘style’. And your genuine confidence in your own style. 

Everyone suggested that I should call my brand by my own name. But I wanted to call it ‘demure’ because, to me, it represents genuine confidence. When you know what you like and you have it, you are confidently quiet. I wanted this idea to be the core of my brand. If you are truly confident in yourself, you don’t have to post selfies on Instagram, you don’t have to brag about the fashion and trend. Imagine how liberating, self-caring and sustainable for your soul that would be! And it will be my utmost honour if my hat becomes the tiniest reason of that feeling. 

Rewiring Fashion

When I started demure as ‘high-end fashion accessory brand’ I immediately sought professional advice and started releasing collections according to the ‘calendar. According to the fashion calendar, in the slowest terms, I had to release my collection at least 6-7months ahead of the actual season and almost a year ahead if I wanted to work with retailers. I kept up with it for three seasons and gave up. The biggest reason was that, after preparing ‘the official collection’ so long ahead, what my customers actually wanted when the intended season arrived was often completely different. I realised that what my customers and I wanted was something uniquely personal rather than ‘trendy’ which would no longer be so in 6 months. My hats are indeed meant for life and the calendar was just not fitting our slow tempo.

So in November 2019, instead of sending out normal press release with campaign images for SS2020, I sent out a message to say I was going to drop out of the circuit. I could not explain really well why back then as i blamed myself for not being able to keep up with the industry norm and was feeling even embarrassed. I was afraid that I might send out a negative message that I am not capable to run a fashion business. I was terrified that I might let down people who had extended kind supports to demure and myself. However people’s reactions were so kind and understanding. i had nice replies to my release and one person even took a bother to pass by my studio to say ‘Keep going!’ and gave me stroopwafels.

So that was where I was end-2019 and beginning 2020. Then the current pandemic situation happened. As I spend the ‘lock-down sabbatical’ period thinking how I go further in my plans,, I heard a news about a new organisation called ‘Rewiring Fashion’. It is lead by Dries Van Noten and other prominent designers as well as other industry players the first announcement included propositions on timings and formats of collection release including the way fashion shows are run and end of excessive discount policies. 

As I said, when I wrote my message to my industry colleagues back last November, I could not streamline my thoughts in a clear way but the statement from the organisation made it so clear for me. It as a big relief to know that I wasn’t necessarily a ‘loser’ to drop out of the race. Many others including the established players were feeling the dilemma between creative pursuit and business pressure. And we found an opportunity to re-set or ‘Re-wire’ together.

The initial statement from Rewiring Fashion simply point out what they see as problems and propose solutions to change in practical terms. No flowery words. Just clear road map and target. It makes me have great faith in this organisation.

Together with re-scheduling collection releasing, it suggests to end excessive discounting. As a maker-brand, whose prices are worked out by simple (material cost) + (my hourly wage x number of hours) with no ‘profit margin’, it will save my life literally. 

Since the lock-down started, I am giving large discounts on many items, but before, I never did a sale and when the store opening goes back to normal, the discount will also end. I never did sale because It felt as if I was betraying full-price-paying customers and also myself, because I did the work to make it and giving discount was to discount my own work. Right now, I am very happy to give up my wage just to say thank you to whoever is willing to support demure in this difficult situation and i know my good customers would understand that. Also as a business, the discount does not hurt anyone outside demure in form of social dumping. It’s only me making hats to sell here so it is technically the same as large corporations not paying directors fees due to the crisis.

I am so excited to hear this news about ‘Rewiring Fashion’ as I hope it to be a movement to bring fashion business closer to genuine appreciation of creativity and commitment of workmen. I am eager to find out how I, as a small powerless individual, can contribute to this movement. 

And I strongly believe that, for this movement, grassroots movement will be essential. If unknown brand owners and consumers think ‘I’m no one, I’m powerless so I can’t create movement,’ that will be a big mistake. And this is the very mistake that those who want to cling to the current privileged positions want. They will make you feel better by ‘talking about’ sustainability and all that and hope you never go further to take action. What I really value in Rewinding Fashion is that, their action plans clearly shows their determination to do things and move forward. But without supports of grassroots, this great idea will also not realise. So we are all in it together and we are all responsible. 

As lock-down for small business starts to ease, the news gave me strong boost and positive outlook. Thank you. 

Yuki

Lock-down and my blogging plan

‘Bloggingl monthly was a goal I set at the beginning of the year and in mid February (yes 1.5 month overdue) I posted my first blog of the year. Back then I prepared a few more posts hoping that I would post them one by one monthly. Then in mid March, COVID 19-related lock-down started and I thought that the posts that I had prepared which had no reference to the situation would not be relevant at least for now. However, for the past 1.5 months, the topics I touched on in my prepared blogs turned out to be the ones discussed a lot in general. These issues have been around regardless of the current situation and these issues are not directly connected to the pandemic.

However, first, the current time vacuum has given us time to seriously reflect on various issues and has given us an opportunity to completely re-set our way of behaviours. Secondly, lots of money has been lost from the industry (there should not have been that much in there in the first place, anyway). And the financial vacuum means power vacuum. There is a chance that whoever has the strongest belief might, might just break the current power structure or status quo which will only benefit the few powerful while many are left powerless, not represented, not represented and exploited. 

I hope to document my thought process during this lock-down and would invite you to give your thoughts. Meanwhile, below texts are what I had written before the lock-down started. After each paragraph, I added my current thoughts.

Empowerment’ theme (written mid Feb 2020)

To be quite blunt, most of the time I hear someone saying ‘We have our products made by people of such and such country and pay them fair to empower these people’ because if I ask them how much they pay these ‘empowered people’, they say with high pride ‘higher than local average’. 

This implies the local average wage is lower compared to European local average wage, which implies European local economy is bigger than local economy of the country of production. And somehow, I have a suspicion that these ‘conscious’ guys seem to think that the local economy over there is smaller for a set of completely wrong reasons. In my opinion, the local economy of these countries is smaller because they have not been subject to fair trade with other part of the world at least at one point in history, or, very often, for a long time including now. In an ideal world, the economies of any part of the world should be at the same level as, in an ideal world, the same service or goods must be compensated the same way. But unfortunately this has not happened for a long time and that’s why there is this economy disparity. If you are not in the same opinion as mine, then you will think that you are a good ones who are ‘empowering’ poor people but in my eyes, it’s mere ignorance and arrogance. Imagine, if someone comes to you saying ‘I’ll empower you’, how do you feel? Am sure you realise that this person feels superior to you. How dare these strangers, don’t you think? 

Addressing this imbalance is another big challenge of the world as we have to go way back to make up for our mistakes in the past. We need and learn more. About history the concept of borders etc etc.  And like anything else, the more we learn, the more we realise that we still don’t know. Since I started demure, I have been more interested in politics on an international level. My business is no international gig but it makes think a lot about fairness and what’s true and false/wrong and right…

Added 26 Apr 2020: Latest news are revealing that workers in weaker positions are the one who have empowered the few by sacrificing their well-being and everything else. 

Branding obsession (written mid Feb 2020)

I come from Osaka Japan, where unique cool culture thrives (you know I’d say this). They go for substance, the cakes rather than the packaging. If your business opt for the squeaky clean branding with perfect story-telling, they will say ‘They give you lecturing on the bloody cake before I eat it and I already don’t wanna eat it!  Yes, story is mere a lecture if substance doesn’t match it and if the story telling sounds too perfect, they suspect that there is something wrong with the substance. However, if your cakes are yummy, they come back, tell friends and can be the most loyal friends and customers. 

Since I started demure, secretly I have been experimenting to see is this ’Osaka method’ works. And the good news is, it certainly does to the extent that what I make sell enough to keep demure on a comfortably sustainable level. The bad news is, on the other hand, that it took me quite a long time, so much energy, try and error and errors and errors. I only survived till demure became ‘safe’ business-wise because it involved what I love the most. 

Added 26 Apr 2020: We hear measure fashion houses are reviewing their expensive strategies, presumably from financial point of view (no matter what they say for the sake of branding). Meanwhile, those who do not need someone else to tell or /make up’ stories to tell carry on with their story-telling, which are turning out to be more visible without manufactured noises.

Fake till you make it(written mid Feb 2020)

Since I starteworking in fashion, I often observe this mentality and if I interpret this as ‘Maintaining positive attitude all the time is important’. then yeah, it’s OK. However very often, I see quite a few people taking this a bit too far in my opinion. 

I tend to read into things too much but for example, if I see someone using filters heavily when taking selfies, I know this person doesn’t like how they look. If I see someone wearing different things for every outing which are borrowed from PR agencies, I know this person wants to look richer than they actually are. What this phenomenon say to me are following. 

1. What you can fake (your appearance or your net worth) are more important to these people. Yes, some people do it as a job but they are only actors and actresses on Oscar days.Don’t we remember hearing from adults with love and wisdom who would say ‘what is important is your heart, not your face nor body’ when we were small?

2. To who do we have to fake? Loved ones? NO!!! Then, does what I see on social media or even in some real life occasion, means that you always feel as if you are surrounded by someone you actually don’t feel loved by? I have a feeling the answer to this question is ‘YES’. Sad. A Dutch historian/journalist Rutger Bregman said in his book ‘We work so hard to earn money to buy clothes to impress people we don’t like’. We effectively dress for others, not for ourselves. And you may think, dressing like your favourite influencer may get you some compliments, but do you, actually, really care what they think of you? And I know, the answer is yes, and actually that is because they are actually not your real friends. They are people who would judge you by your appearance or which labels you wear. your true friends love you for what you are and don’t give an F to what you are wearing. I feel sorry for such people.Besides, as far as this slogan ‘Fake till you make it’ is concerned, this has also become a mantra for business owners but then again, for me, this is an attitude that I might have towards those I consider to be my enemies. And I have no enemies. All the entrepreneurs are my friends, advisors and someone that I can share my thoughts and feeling, positive or negative. They are the ones that I go to for inspirations and advices. If I fake to these guys, how can I build trust and gain most valuable knowledge and wisdoms? Even other hat makers are also my inspirations. The more of them they are, the variety of products is available to customers and customers also have more opportunities to gain professional knowledges to choose right brand snd and products. And especially, solidarity within smaller business community is very important for all of us to survive. It takes a lot to run a small business on my own and I absolutely have no time nor energy to waste in pretending to be successful or superior. 

I hope I will meet more of like-minded small business owners so we can be more open and supportive to each other. 

Added 26 Apr 2020: Yeah, how actually liberating not having to look perfect or no need to pretend to be a power business man/woman? 

I know, as one blog post, they are very random but I will be continuing to write, just for myself and maybe, whoever may feel similar ways at the moment. 

I wish you all safety and peace of mind. 

Yuki

About our wardrobe

In light of recent awareness of sustainability, we often hear about how to organise our wardrobes more consciously, which I welcome very much.

The most popular concept is ‘buy well, buy less.’. In order to do this, we need to look at quality of the garments we buy so we can wear them for a long time without too much damage or only with repairable damage and we need to know how to repair them or who can repair them for us. Also, it’s often said that we should pick ‘staple pieces’ such as cashmere cardigan, crisp white shirt and chanel quilted shoulder bags.

Maybe that’s a good idea. 

I do have a cashmere V neck jumper which my grandmother bought for me 30 years ago and I still wear it because the quality of it is so good and the simplicity of the piece makes it versatile in daily styling. However, as far as the styles go, does it really need to be ‘the classic’ or does it have to be from an eternally popular brands (the items from such brands are called 'investment pieces' which I tend to dislike)? What if you are not the most ‘classic’ kind of person? Or what about your sentimental value which you build as you keep something for a long time? What about 'true value' of a garment for you? If you look at your wardrobe, I’m sure you can identify your own style (regardless of seasonal or even weekly fashion trend) which suits your taste for aesthetic and body shape/complexions which are very unique to yourself. Also you will have good old memories with certain items. And I strongly believe that you must not ignore your own style and values when choosing something which you hope to wear for a long time. Trend may change ever so often but the eyes for beauty you have nurtured over the years and your personal feeling towards the piece (ie. saving up for ages to buy this special piece ) must be something you should never ignore. You are worth it and your opinions and feeling also matter. Once you identify what you really like and go for it, I’m sure you will feel even more comfortable wearing it and would not feel urged to ‘catch up with fashion’ or to wear certain brands to feel more secure. Remember, one of the reasons why trend switches so often is to keep you insecure and keep buying. Meanwhile, in order to establish your taste and eyes for quality and style, some people may need more quality information. And, like for anything else these days, finding impartial useful information to build authentic views of your own is a big challenge. 

Since I started working in fashion industry,  I have realised that the best styled people often draw inspiration from many other things than fashion items. Some love arts, some love music and some are good observers of human being in general. They are also interested in how things are made and pay attention to details rather than labels as they know such details make so much difference in the looks.. They are in principle very perceptive people who see and appreciate many things in life. These guys always come up with the most creative ideas for clothing which make them look beautiful and show freedom of expression and celebration of themselves. This way, they are secure with their own ideas and allow no one to interrupt with the style. You will then realise that it is important to give more credit to your own liking (which is a reflection of your character and interest ) rather than listening to ‘Insta-Famous opinions leaders’ and others in similar positions. Then who needs to buy new things every time you go out or needs to stick to 'classic piece' to stay safe?

About sustainability

As some of you may know, I originally come from Japan, which is known as a ‘trendy country’. Everything is pretty advanced there and attitude towards sustainability is no exception. However, while awareness for sustainability has been raised relatively recently worldwide, in Japan, it has been a core value of the culture since the beginning of history and there are three major reasons that I see.

Firstly, it is a country under heavy influence of Buddhism. The way they think is logical yet pragmatic. For example, before we start eating, instead of saying ‘Bon appetite’, we say ‘We are about to eat others’ life with most gratefulness and respect’. It means that, while we accept that we cannot physically survive without eating others’ lives animal-based or plant-based, it is important that we pay utmost respect to the sacrifice and try to keep such sacrifice to the minimum. And speaking of respect, we are also told not to forget all the effort that people made so we can have what we have. There were these people who produced the goods, then people who worked hard to bring these goods home. Wasting things would be a sign of disrespect to these hard-working people. My grandfather would say ‘If you think about these things, you wouldn’ t even leave a single grain of rice left in your ricebowl!. 

Secondly as a matter of a fact, despite apparent material abundance, Japan has always lived on little resources. To date, rice is the only thing they can supply themselves 100% domestically as a result of heavy governmental protection. Everything ielse s imported. In 70’s when there was this oil crisis, there was a rumour that we would even run out of toilet papers and people would rush into supermarket in panic. 

Thirdly, it was merely 70 years ago that the entire nation went through poverty and starvation during the World War II. My parents’ generation and the older have passed on their stories and have taught us how grateful we should be for the peace and other tings that come with it. 

The idea of sustainability therefore is my permanent personal value rather than something I have been made aware of recently and it certainly isn’t something I talk about to present my brand as ‘trendy’. Also, as you may realise by now, innovations and creativity that come from Japan are often result of people’s effort to enhance our living without wasting resources, be it on corporate or individual level. For example on a very individual level, when I was 10 year old, I told my father that I wanted a telescope to watch the surface of the moon. He first complained how much of luxury I was asking for, but next moment he would go and find small optical mirrors from some old equipments and a small piece of water pipe left in a building site and would build a telescope. It might have looked nothing like an expensive telescope, but I could indeed see the craters of the moon, the ring of Saturn and Jupiter with 4 of its largest satellites! 

When I opened my studio in September 2016, my business-savvy friend would tell me how important it was for me to make sure the look of the studio premise was up to the luxury standard and was appalled that I brought unused furniture from home. However, before a luxury brand owner, I am a person who was raised with values described as above and I could not make a compromise. Also I strongly believe that what makes my product ‘luxurious’ is the time, work and care that I put into each hat that I make and not the money I spend in new furniture for the studio (where I make a mess anyway!). 

Having said that, while I am an individual who values sustainability, I am also a fashion designer who is supposed to produce beautiful things. These days, if I say ‘this is an environmentally-friendly hat’,I  will probably get away to some extent even with an ugly hat made with scraps of fabrics in bad colours scheme. However, I take my job as a designer too seriously for that marketing plot. Of course, working with sustainability in mind often brings some limitation in terms of resources. However, this is where my ability as a designer is tested. Actually, as I said earlier, such limitation can drive you to be more creative, leading to some pleasantly surprising result! I would like to show a few examples of such projects below.

This bucket hat from AW19 collection (The first photo below) was made with small remnants of tweed used to make skipper caps. Because it was made of all the remnants, putting all the small pieces together in tact yet not showing any seams and also in the right colour scheme was a time-consuming challenge but I had spent long enough to collect enough to choose from. and textures. I made these pieces to order in consultation with customers so everyone had a unique piece with different gradation of colours.

Skipper caps made with ‘C-class’ denim from Japan and lined with Italian silk (The second photo below). B-class’ or ‘C-class’ fabric are the ones which have a few flows (unevenly woven part, small damages etc) and the shocking fact is that, in many cases, these fabrics are simply destroyed. However in Japan, they often sell them at a cost price or there are even factories which specialise in repairing these fabrics to the ‘A-class’. For me, avoiding the ‘flow’ part is easy and the small damage part are made into trims and other small things although I have to give it a little time to efficiently cut the fabrics and think about the designs so these ‘flows’ don’t look like flows. And when it comes to the silk used as lining, there is absolutely nothing wrong with it, it was just that the big brand decided not to use this material and rolls and rolls of this beautiful silk were about to be dumped! Luckily, some rolls were saved by a friend of mine who was happy to share some with me. Otherwise, a skipper cap with handmade silk lining wouldn’ t be possible at the current price ;) 

Tur-Ban-Deau made with ‘vegan silk’ (The third photo below). ‘Vegan silk’ is made from cellulose extracted from wood waste, which makes this fabric in principle the same as viscose. However, the fabric used for these pieces are of ‘ball-gown quality’. Normally, the price of a bandeau (EUR49.5,-) is pretty much the same as the cost of this beautiful material but thanks to my fabric supplier who was willing to share the beauty at a much lower price because the pieces were trade samples. Meanwhile, turning these fabric with classic or almost ‘old-fashioned’ look into something more casual and easy to wear with possibility of being able to sell them at a reasonable price was an interesting challenge. Tur-Ban-Deau is a hairband with a small piece of elastic hidden in a cute knot and because of generous use of fabric, it can look as voluminous as a turban while wearing it is very easy. 

To care about resources while maintaining high standard of designs, Much of time, energy and professional knowledge are required. And I hope, all the effort that I make result in a product that looks and feels special and becomes something that you would like to wear for a long time. My biggest wish is that, instead of investing money into disposable fashion, people invest in the effort and creativity to optimise the potential of resources, and end up in a product that you can emotionally engage for a long time. 

It will probably not be the last time that I write about this issue. Thank you so much for your time to listen to my mumbling!

yuki

Spring & Summer 2019 Collection

The theme of demure Spring & Summer collection is 'Beach Wedding, Its Guests and the Morning After'. It however is not a bridal-only collection. Most of the pieces carry very casual air and you could definitely wear them daily. Shades of whites, natural linen colours and straw colours are clean and classic yet overall styles of the hats are very relaxed. Materials are all natural and high quality to survive the strong UV and life full of activities while looking chic. These pieces will hopefully make you feel special while enjoying summer holidays or commuting to work in the sun.
While producing this collection, I somehow had this story of a very modern wedding on my mind. A small gathering to celebrate the newly wed, private and relaxed. Everyone needs a hat because it is sunny on the beach. The groom may fall into the sand and the bride, instead of looking like a 'princess for a day' turns up in her favourite summer dress and roses made with washed out cottons. In-laws and some ex-es. A friend who used to be and maybe still is in love with one of the couple. Even maybe future lovers. Literally anything is possible and nothing is eternal these days and maybe because of that it feels magical for these people to get together to spend some carefree happy moments. So in this collection, there may be some traditional bridal cues in terms of colours (whit-ish) the styles are very individual as if each piece forms a character in this wedding story. And the white-ish shades that I chose have lots of nuances and textures. I was surprised myself
to have found some beautiful ivory waxed linens and some other beautiful white shades.

The beautiful campaign images were, like AW18,  produced by photographer Nicky Onderwater and stylist Thomas Vermeer. Both Thomas and Nicky have supported demure from the very beginning and brought so much inspirations to my work. Now that I run demure also as a business, my campaigns needs to reflect some commercial needs but lure of just going creative without thinking ‘Is it gonna sell?’ is so irresistible. And I love that my team also seems to share the same sense of 'guilty pleasure'. My quiet dream is to continue with this team and one day produce a little album. Please take a look at the images on my 'campaign pages' and get inspired.

As the days become longer and we see more of the sun, I wish you all lovely spring and summer with good UV protection!

'Handmade' and 'Homemade'

My teacher of hat-making (or millinery) is Prudence of Prudence Millinery, who has famously been making hats for Vivienne Westwood and other great brands as well as for her own. I strongly believe that she is the best in the world. While she is one of the sweetest person that I know, when it comes to making hats, she is uncompromising in her approach. I learned so much from her about couture work. There are so many words that she said that I still have close to my heart when working but I would like to share one of my favourite quotes from her.

During the class, she would often refer to something and say 'Um, this is 'home-made' rather than 'hand-made'. While Prudence finds the same amount of love in both 'home-made' and 'hand-made' things, as the best milliner in the world, she believes that the standards of techniques involved to produce 'hand=made' items are totally different from those employed to make something 'home-made'.

In order to be able to call a hat 'hand-made' or 'couture' instead of 'home-made', she taught us students very specific techniques many of which have been largely forgotten or ignored for commercial reasons. She also expected us to perfect the skills by taking time to do everything neatly. All the hand techniques were often complicated and hard to get it right. Every time we learned new stitches and new materials, it would take ages to make the most simple thing and I would often go home thinking 'Maybe I'm not good at this'. However Prudence would say 'Don't worry, don't rush. Speed will come with time. It is important that you learn the right skill to achieve the best aesthetic. You'd hate to see ugly sewing machine stitches on the brim of your hats, don't you!?  Take your time and never compromise on your standard. It makes your piece truly 'hand-made', not 'home-made'. I had to be patient and so did Prudence during my long training period.

Craftsmanship has become a very popular concept and even pre-packaged biscuits sold at supermarket says it. I am actually not bitter about it at all because there is nothing wrong with the concept and we all have to say something nice to say to sell. However, I feel terribly sorry when I see people paying lots of money for something not-well-made because they are somehow tricke by the word 'craftsmanship'. Someone has somehow managed to blur the line between 'hand-made' and 'home-made'.

I'm sure it is still a little vague. If you are curious about difference between 'hand-made' and 'home-made', please come and visit my studio.  Once I tell you what to look at and why I do certain things certain way, the way you look at hats or any other products may change a bit. Then I hope that you will also realise that much more thoughts and care are put into your hats and what you pay is certainly invested into your hats, not into that vague 'brand experience' . OK, now this is also my excuse for not having a mahogany table and marble floor like a 'luxury shop' should do, which makes some of my business savvy friends freak out all the time!

demure Skipper caps 'LBd'

Skipper caps are far the most popular items sold at demure. Amongst them, the ones which come in black/blue/beige are popular and all the names of these colours happen to start with 'b' so I call this selection of caps 'LBd' or "Little Black/Blue/Beige demure'.

It's been a few years since skipper caps became trendy and elsewhere you may have started seeing other styles are gathering popularity but here in Amsterdam I think skippers will stay to become one of the classics. Casual and active style perfectly fit Amsterdam lifestyle and these caps with peak and headband are perfectly made for windy weather and biking.

As far as LBd's are concerned, what make them popular is staying true to the classic while being unique in design. Also, I have taken practicalities and other things into consideration in making them.

1. Original patterns

The skipper caps that you may find elsewhere are in made using patterns and forms for original skippers caps which were meant to be for men and they in general have rather different facial features from women. I started drawing my patterns to address the difference. I have also developed several different patterns depending on which fabric I use or what customers are looking for. 'A skipper cap which can contain a bun of your hair on your bad hair day' is one example. With these patterns, proportions of different parts are well thought out (I have no idea how many times I repeated prototyping/drawing!) and I can of course make further adjustment according to customers' individual needs.

2. Fabric

I couldn't help but try the combination of rich tweeds, silk denim and other luxurious fabric with skipper shape. As a result, the caps can be worn for both casual and formal occasions and can be a part of lady-like look as well as more masculine style and my customers love them!

3. Other details

The band at the front, buttons and emblems are typical trim for skipper caps but minor difference in shapes and sizes of these things can even affect the way they enhance your facial features and i think I have been figuring out these secrets.....!

4. Sizing and the headband

The band which is underneath the main part of the cap often has hard plastic base and I hate it. It is not breathable at all and it often gives you headache. So I use cotton or linen canvas instead and that's why my caps are way more comfortable when you put them on.

5. Lining

Maybe this is a part which may not be seen but is a very important part because it touches your head directly. That's why I would love to use fabric made of natural fibres. And I would like them to be as luxurious as silk, vegan silk, cashmere/cotton mix, Cotton drill or Liberty Tana Lawn. Showing your style to the rest of the world is one thing, but I would like to add something that only YOU will know and enjoy. I think this leads to quiet confidence or 'demureness' by my definition.

These things are some of what make LBd's rather special. And because they are special, I would love you to wear them for a long time. To make it possible, I take much time to make them in the first place, and I would be more than happy to do the maintenance work such as changing the grosgrain ribbon in side the caps for free of charge. This way I can also keep in touch with my customers as they bring their beloved pieces back to me and it is always my utmost pleasure to hear them say 'Hey I wear this one all the time!'.

Hello!

an introduction

Yuki on demure

My shop is in the centre of beautiful little Amsterdam, but not on a  shopping street so it’s never busy. I get to talk to my customers which  is kind of important as a hat maker, not least because it’s not easy to  choose a hat.

Most of the conversations with my customers start with ‘I  have a huge head’, which is most of the time NOT the case. ‘I never  look good in hat’, is also common, and is also most often UNTRUE. These comments come from lack  of knowledge on hats as accessories (which are there to make you look  and feel better) of maybe lack of confidence and I’m here to assist you  by making suggestions based on my professional knowledge or personal  experience, not based on my incentive to sell and make money (If I did  everything based on the last, it’s me who ends up with returned goods  covered in make up).

Because demure is a ‘hobby-for-life-turned-into-a-little-business’ kind  of shop, I truly enjoy the process of chatting for good hour or two about  what I make, how happy I was to find this rare fabric, how long it took  me to make all the details and why I think you look great in certain  shapes and colours. If you think about it, every colour and shape and  character should have at least one complimenting colour/shape/mood and  if you are refusing to believe it, it may actually come from somewhere  inside you. That I totally understand. I come from Japan, which happens  to be known to be a fashion capital amongst many other things but one  not-so-nice things is that there is this atmosphere that ‘You have to be  certain way if you belong to certain group’, which often causes  unnecessary sense of insecurity in vulnerable hearts.

I was not one of  the trendy kids, not mixing well, always on a chubby end (by insane  Japanese standard). So whenever I had to pick up any piece of garment  for myself, I had to pay so much attention to superdetails to ensure  that it does not look too horrible on me (everyone remembers this brutal  phrase ‘if you are skinny, everything looks nice on you’ and I was the complete opposite, so technically there was none/hardly anything which  would look good on me). This is not the happiest memory of my youth but  two nice things came out of it. One, I totally feel your tiniest  insecurity and I’m the last one to take advantage of it. Two, with all  the hard work of finding out exactly what can compliment a look in terms  of shapes and colours, I can address the tiniest details so you feel  ‘Ah, this works!’.

When I started this project, I wanted to call it ‘demure’ (in all small  letters please!) because to me, this is the status you can be in when  you are truly comfortable and confident. Like, ‘Yep, I’m cool, period.’  My grandmother was that person. In the 1980’s when all the wealthy old  ladies were clad in Versace and Leonard and said my nana was ‘modest’  (which translated ‘poor’) because she was wearing all the beiges and  greys, not even knowing brands such as Daks and Aquascutum or not being  familiar with concept of bespoke tailoring. Meanwhile my grandmother  would just let them gossip and stuck to her own style as she knew  everything about clothes after growing up in a family which traded in  kimono fabrics. My humble goal is to appreciate all my customers to decisions to give me  a chance and for sharing their wishes and make sure that they all feel  ‘demure’ when put on my pieces.

My most favourite moment is when I hear a  customer say ‘I wear this one all the time!’ When s/he brings back a  well-used piece for maintenance and repairs. Once I saw Yohji Yamamoto saying on a Japanese TV show ‘I never felt  that I lost to any other fashion designers but when I see a friend  grabbing his old tatty coat every winter as if he wouldn’t survive the  cold without it, I feel sheer sense of defeat’. I would love to make such a hat for you.

demure studio shop, Korte Marnixstraat 5, 1013 HT Amsterdam