demure

couture hat amsterdam

July 2020: ‘demure is dead’

Yuki Isshiki

Since COVID-19 related restrictions came in place, so much have changed by now and it was not always easy to deal with the new situation but thank you very much for all your kind supports. Every time I had a chance to have a contact with you, I felt so much better. Thank you very much again...! When I heard the announcement of the 'intelligent lock-down' one weekend in mid March, my initial thought was that there was a serious chance that demure might not survive as a business. While I knew I would continue making hats by all means, I feared that I might lose demure as a business, which was also a platform for me to present my work to a wider audience than a small circle of friends. I thought, if demure brand was to die, I wanted it to die at its best. This meant that I had much work to do.

1. New hats. My initial thoughts were that, if lock-down meant no sales at all, at least I didn't have to worry if my new designs would sell or not and I might as well make whatever I wanted to. Past few years, pressure to make 'trendy/popular/not-so-expensive/easier-to-sell' hats had been somehow draining my energy but I was all over sudden free from the pressure. I also had all time in the world. I could make what I had wanted to make yet had not had a chance for long time. For example, a small collection of bridal headpieces. Besides, not having access to new materials made me look at my large stash of fabrics and to be creative with them.

2. GStar RAW Earth Day project. I had been invited to present my work using re-cycled denim from the brand and I could spend good amount of time to produce 2 headpieces based on inspirations from two Dutch art masterpieces (Van Gogh's 'Sunflowers' and Vermeer's 'Melkmeisje). Sustainability and how designers could use their creativity were two of the many themes which were reflected upon during the period and I was fortunate to have an opportunity to express myself creatively and to contribute to the great project.

3. Collaboration with Ferry Schiffelers. Since I made a few headpieces for Ferry's collection 'Ladies Who Lunch' last year, we have continued to work together. Past few months, we have finalised designs for our next eollcetion, which are tiara-like high risen hairbands made with intricate materials. We hope to launch the collection during this summer. Ferry definitely was one of my best ‘quaranteam’!

4. Social media. Social media became even more important as way or communication past few months. More people staying online for longer time meant great opportunities for small brands like demure to reach out to wider audience in search for people like yourselves, who share the same values as mine. There is nothing new with me posting images daily on Instagram but I tried to write more text, direct audience to read my blogs, while continuing to present interesting images so I could communicate further what demure stands for from both creative and business perspectives.

5. Website and blogs While I am still behind in terms of business/technical sides of the website maintenance (SEO etc), it looks as if I managed to bring myself into a routine of blog-writing. This is more of my personal project as I write notes to myself as I reflect on many issues impacting not only fashion industries but our lives and society. While my posts may not be written in the most sophisticated manners from branding point of view, if anyone is interested in demure as a one-man band and the person behind it, it may give away some clues.

And now, after a period of self-challenging and clarification, my plans for the future are somehow firming up...

1. Studio is open full time for appointments only. I feel that relaxing of the rules by the government takes into account not only public health but also economy but at demure, I would like to take into account hygiene and safety only. By inviting customers by appointment only, I can ensure hygiene maintenance for each visit to be on the safest side. in fact, I was never a big fan of the ‘appointment only’ system but now I realise that it also helps me to better help my customers with better preparation so I think I will keep this system in place for a while :)

2. Unique products. After spending a few months producing without too much 'commercial considerations', I feel more comfortable with presenting unique one-off pieces. Going forward, I would like to try again to promote demure's unique styles and philosophy with greater confidence rather than being concerned about 'What people could like'. I would like to spend more time for each piece, using variety of the skills I have learned while making further efforts to communicate the values to the audience. Recent strengthening of communication channel via social media will hopefully help me achieve this.

3. Presentation of new work. As of last year, I had already announced that I would stop with twice-a-year collection launches and it will remain the case moving forward. Recent announcement of the launch of 'Rewinding Fashion' initiative by Dries Van Noten and other important figures was such a motivating news for me. Instead of putting together certain number of pieces only to have them 'a season older' in 6 month, I would like to present to you a piece as I am truly confident. I realised that, as a very small brand, the inability to deal with large wholesale business in fact frees me from certain calendar and cost restriction associated with such wholesale business. In the past, I tried to do such business most probably from egotistical reasons but recently I feel totally happy with demure being 'the little hat maker in the town doing own things'.

Like for many other fashion brands, recent events have had significant impact on demure for many reasons. It was indeed a challenging time but I wanted to take on all the challenges and come out of this period as stronger as a person and for demure also to be a stronger establishment. I am sure that I will face more obstacles in the coming period but I am confident that whatever may come will give us opportunities to truly confront the issues that we have had for a long time and make fundamental changes where necessary. As a fashion designer/brand owner, I will focus on producing beautiful things without harming other people nor environment, think for my customers, communicate my commitment and speak out against social injustice (economical, racial, environmental). Thank you very much for your time to read this, and I wish you and loved ones health and all the best. I hope to see you soon, too...!

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